Wednesday, November 17, 2010

reflections on Prague

I really do like this city, but it has some uniquenesses that I will share. The area, controlled by the Knights Templar in the 13th century fell into feudal hands in 1310 when Templars were disbanded but then the Jesuits took up the "management" of the region. Then the Hapsburg Empire, then country formed the Czechoslovakian government, then the Nazi rule, then the Soviets and now, after 21 years ago (today is the National holiday of the Velvet Revolution), the Czech Republic. So, use this as a base to understanding the culture. The region, Bohemia, has almost always been occupied. I hate generalities as there are always exceptions.

1. Czech people are nice but they have a Eastern European way of showing it! Do not expect smiles, warm welcomes or open "arms". If they speak to you kindly (more than a scour and grunt), consider yourself welcomed.

2. Czech food is simple; mostly pork... roasted, red & white cabbage and potatoes/bread and sausages. I think this is typical as they did with meager foods for so many years. This is not the place to load up on vegetables.

3. Do NOT expect anything extra with your meal. If it is not stated in the menu, there is an additional charge; catsup with those fries? bread & butter? sauce of any kind? these are are about $.50 additional

4. I like November here; it is cool but not bitter cold, no snow, just overcast every day and maybe some misting but thats ok for me.

5. The buildings fascinate me. Some in city center are from 13th century. Many are 17th, 18th & 19th and then you have the big clunky Soviet era gigantasoruses. Many look univiting from street but go thru the car sized gate and you will find a courtyard (meant for horse & carriage arrivals) or the most beautiful artisan work. Really very deceptive and then surprising.

6. It seems expensive here, and it is! There are ways to economize but for the most part, this city is like the Paris of the East. Be prepared to spend. To economize; buy at the mini markets like the locals for snacks and beverages. Eat off beaten tourist path. You will sit with locals but hey, thats half the fun. Look for hostels and railway stations. There are always good take away pizza and doner kebab stores close to these locations. A typical Czech meal (entree, starch and cabbage) should cost 159czk or about $9. Czechs eat smaller meals thru out the day. They do not have buffet restaurants. McDonalds sells tons of just a single cheeseburger to people stopping in for a quick take away bite. 20czk or about 50cents, the transaction is 5 seconds and they are out the door cheeseburger in hand.

7. Take the tours! All of them! They are informative and gets you to the off the beaten path places and out of the city.

8. Use the subway all that you can. For 26czk, about $2, you can tool all over the place. You can not even get into a taxi for $2 much less go anywhere. It was built by Soviets and has the feel of the Moscow subway; very steep, very fast escaltors but also cool artwork.

9. The city is safe, learn how to say no to the throngs of people that want to sell you something and watch for gyspy pick pockets. Don't carry your wallet in back pocket or purse full of stuff. Just be cautious and self aware.

10. Take a whole day to tour the Castle district. Start with changing of the guard (as this is still the Office of the President) and look thru every museum! It is worth it.

This is my two cents about Prague.
Next blog; Italy!
Ciao

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